Fins, Masks and Snorkels from Aqualung, DeepBlue, IST and PSI available for try before you buy. Try the fins or mask on our Scuba Diving Day Trips before you have to decide to buy it or not.
Mask from THB 890
We have a Mask fits you perfectly.
Fins from THB 2’800
Try the fins in the current first.
How often have you been standing in a store and you had desired to test the product before you buy it. The dream becomes reality. With us you can try each mask and fins und test it on a dive and you can consider if it meets your expectations. Following fins, masks and Snorkel are waiting for your try:
- X-Shot from Aqualung
- FX-Shot from Aqualung
- Linea from Aqualung
- Impression from Aqualung
- Look HD from Aqualung
- Micro Mask from Aqualung
- Bora Plus from DeepBlue
- Hunter from IST
- Aquilon P/V from Aqualung
- Zephyr from Aqualung
- Flex Schnorchel from SubGear
- Nautilus from Aqualung
Even while learn diving it is important to have the perfect mask. You already have the opportunity during your scuba diving course in Phuket to find a suitable mask. How about to test the effectiveness of various fin in currents? A great way to combine a drift diving specialty course with testing fins.
The world’s best selling diving computer you will already wear in our beginner diving courses. The Suunto Zoop is a universal dive computer with a good price-quality ratio.
Suunto Zoop Novo THB 11’995
Available in Yellow, Aloha Diving Blue or Black
Free Nitrox Course
You read correctly – Buy any Diving Computer with us and get the Nitrox course free of charge.
The Suunto Zoop Novo is the “entry-level model” and is appreciated by diving schools and instructors alike. He is in many dive centers around the world in continuous use. Suunto offers beside the Zoop also the Viper, Cobra, Helo 2, Steel as a dive computer and the D4 Novo, D6i and Dx as dive watches. The features from Suunto Zoop Novo are as following:
- Choice of operating mode – Air / Nitrox
- Choice of unit – Metric / Imperial
- Maximum depth alarm
- Dive time alarm
- Clock, calendar
- Mix Oxygen fraction % (Nitrox mode only)
- Maximum PO2 (Nitrox mode only)
- Altitude adjustment
- Personal adjustment
The ZOOP features two dive computer models (AIR, NITROX), three main operat- ing modes (TIME/STAND-BY, SURFACE, DIVING), two menu based main modes (MEMORY, SET) and seven menu based submodes. You can scroll through the modes using the push buttons. The mode indicator at the left side and the mode text at the bottom of the display indicate the selected mode. A simple, durable and reliable dive computer accompany you on your diving adventures.
All accessories we sell, our instructors use every day in all diving activities. The following accessories we have available on stock: Adjustable mouthpieces, Pointer, buoy, Reel etc.
Deep Blue DSMB THB 1’250
A DSMB in Pocket size
Reel 15m THB 785
With the Reel you are able to deploy the DSMB in every depth.
We have the matching accessories for every situation underwater. For drift diving, for the underwater camera, regulators, or simply for your boat trip in the tropics. Below you’ll find a list of the most popular accessories:
- Adjustable mouthpieces
- Fish Slates
- Diveguide south Andamansea
- Diveguide north Andamansea
- Dry Bags
- CPR Pocket Mask
For your diving adventure in Thailand you are perfectly equipped with our accessories. We can also help you out for your special needs such tailor made wetsuits.
Maintenance and service for Aqualung, Poseidon, Mares and Scubapro gear.
Our certified and authorized service technicians are happy to keep your scuba gear in a good shape.
THB 1’000 Regulator
Service 3 Stages and SPG. exclusive Service Kits (spare parts)
THB 500 BCD
Service Inflator and Dump valves. exclusive Service Kits (spare parts)
Each regulator is returned with a bag of parts replaced and a full report.
- Aqualung Reg BCD’s
- Apeks Reg BCD’s
- Suunto Computers
- Mares Reg BCD’s Computers
- Atomic Aquatics Reg
- Scubapro Reg BCD’s
- Cressi Sub Reg BCD’s and Computers
Aloha Ocean Adventures offers for the following brands the full service:
Further we offer visual inspection for all scuba cylinders.
We work only with official Travel Kits as specified by the manufacturers, that you keep your warranty.
Each regulator is returned with a bag of parts replaced and a full report. We have a fully equipped workshop including a regulator breathing tester and ultrasonic cleaner.
We are pleased to offer you perhaps the best after sales equipment service in the industry.
Scuba Diving Equipment Care Tips – Do you have your own scuba gear and like to know keep them in good shape that you can enjoy them for many years?
Scuba Diving Equipment Care Tips
Do you have your own Scuba Diving Equipment and like to know keep them in good shape that you can enjoy them for many years? Of course dive gear like your regulator will need a regular service (most manufacturers recommend every 100 dives or every 2 years, whichever comes first) which can be done by us or any registered service center, but to prevent high costs of replacement of certain parts it’s important to clean all your gear after every day of diving.
Cleaning Dive Gear
When we clean and check our returned rental regulators, we follow 10 steps.
- Often people make remarks on how good our rental gear looks. More important on the maintenance and cost side, the yearly servicing of our regs is an easy job with no corrosion to soak and scrub off. Below are the most important steps of our regulator cleaning routine.
- During your dive week you can just rinse your gear in the rinse tank at the end of a dive, but it is well worth the time and effort after the last dive to do the full clean before storing your gear.
- Check that the dust cap has no salt water in it, if yes, wash it out while keeping your thumb on the opening of the first stage so water doesn’t go in. Dry the dust cap by blowing it out with a tank, then put it back on the first stage and close to seal tightly.
- Pull the hose protectors away from where the hoses connect to the first and second stages. Let the tap water run through the holes in the first stage, you must see the water running out of the holes (not all regulators have holes in the first stage by the way, for these sealed first stages you can omit this step).
- Let the tap water run through the two mouthpieces and exhausts of the second stages. Do not press the purge button while doing this! If you do happen to press the purge button, make sure that you put the reg back on a tank and purge the second stages a number of times to get all water out.
- Do check the bite tabs on the mouthpieces and inspect around the tie wrap for small holes. For hygienic purposes at this point we generously sponge soapy antibacterial dish liquid thoroughly around the mouth piece.
- With your still soapy sponge, wipe over the second stage covers and all metal parts – this helps to remove salt and chemical residue. At this point you can also check your hoses for any wear and tear.
- Finally, submerge the regulator (except the 1st stage) in a rinse tank of fresh water and soak for at least 5 minutes. Put the reg on a tank and purge the 2nd stages to remove any water left in the system. Take the 1st stage off the tank and seal it with the dust cap.
- Hang the reg up to dry (if outside keep out of the sun). Make sure the hose protectors are not covering the metal parts.
- Once dry, use Silicone Spray to spray the thread of 1st stage knob while screwing it in and out to ensure even distribution of the silicone over all the threads. Spray in and around the BCD quick disconnect while pulling it backwards and releasing it a few times. Spray the metal parts on the hoses close to the 1st and 2nd stages with Silicone Spray and push back the hose protectors.
What to do if you flooded your first stage regulator by not closing the dust cap while rinsing?
Firstly, it’s not that bad if you flood it with fresh water. If your regulator is flooded with salt water, rinse with fresh water immediately, to avoid corrosion. The main thing that you want to avoid is pressurizing the regulator while there is water inside and a computer or SPG attached. This could potentially damage your instruments downstream. Do not attempt this yourself – as soon as you can take your regulator to a regulator service technician – he/ she will do the following:
- Immediately remove hoses and gauges, leaving only the second stage regulators attached to the low pressure portion of your 1st stage.
- Rinse the first stage with fresh water if necessary (i.e., if you suspect that you have salt water or other contaminants inside the first stage).
- Attach the first stage to a tank and slowly turn on the air. The service tech will be flushing all water out the high pressure ports. He will then slowly purge the second stages so that any water in the hoses will also be pushed out of the system. Warning: don’t ever pressurize a 1st stage regulator on a tank without a way to depressurize, such as having a second stage attached or a port open. If you do, good luck ever getting that thing off!
- Last, if in a reasonably non-humid environment, the tech should let the whole thing sit out with ports out for a few hours to let any moisture evaporate before reassembling the regulator. While the regulator tech is working on your regulator, take your computer/ SPG and hold it at the gauge end and give it a good twirling to get any residual moisture or liquid out of the hose. It is very unlikely that you got any water through the pinprick-sized hole if you didn’t pressurize the system wet, but this is just for good measure (and a little bit of fun). Be sure you don’t accidentally his anyone with the hose or drop your gauges.
What is described here is just an immediate remedy to avoid and/ or mitigate the damage done by flooding, most of which is corrosion. Please take into consideration that your situation may vary depending on what type of water you got into your regulator and the type of regulator you have. Whatever you do immediately after flooding your regulator, you should definitely have it fully serviced as soon as possible. Regulators are expensive and sophisticated pieces of gear that our lives depend on, so it’s better to be safe than sorry.
Be sure to soak your dive computer in fresh water after every dive. While submerged, depress all of the buttons a few times to get all the salt water out of them. Be sure to dry out of direct sunlight.
If your dive computer Floods!
If it is a user replaceable battery type, immediately remove the back cover and remove and discard the battery. Use compressed air to blow all water out of the battery compartment. Once completely dry insert a new battery and test. Make sure to use a battery replacement kit from the manufacturer of your dive computer – these usually come with new o’rings and back plate. It is important to replace these as they are the most likely culprits for the flooding. Check also for other damage to the computer that may have been the cause of the flooding. Non-user replaceable battery types will need to be sent to a service center or back to the manufacturer for repair.
The most important part of cleaning a BCD is to rinse away any salt water from the inside of the bladder, the dump valves and the inflator/deflator unit and hose. To prevent corrosion in your inflator unit, clean it by flushing the inside with fresh water. With the inflator unit mouthpiece held tight to the faucet of running tap water alternately push the inflator and deflator buttons. You should see the water coming out of the nipple, and water should be going into the BCD. The tap needs to be quite far open as you need good water pressure to flush the valve. Watch out – you might get wet!
Fill the BCD with some more fresh water. To do this you can remove a dump valve (be sure not to loose the gasket and be sure not to cross-thread when replacing); however the best (although not the easiest) is to do as in above, pressing the deflate button. Make sure the BCD is empty of air and below the incoming water. Slosh the water around to rinse every corner of the bladder.
Inflate the bladder (either by mouth or by regulator attached to a tank), make one of the dump valves the lowest point, and in 1 fluid movement squeeze the BCD and dump at the same time to force water through the dump valve. Fill and repeat to flush the rest of the dump valves. Once all the valves are flushed, empty the BCD of all water. Fully inflate the BCD and hang out of sunlight to dry. The reason to fully inflate the BCD is to check it’s air holding integrity – if the BCD is deflated when it is dry there is likely a leak somewhere in the system. If drying space is at a premium, just inflate with a little air and after drying fill with air to do the integrity test.
To clean your wetsuit you can use a little bit of dishwashing liquid in a basin full of fresh water. Soak well with a bit of movement to wash the wetsuit inside out before hanging it up to dry. If outside, make sure you hang the wetsuit out of direct sunlight. Aloha Ocean Adventures sells “Sink the Stink”, a soapy solution to get the smell out of your wetsuit if you have not kept up with a proper cleaning routine before 🙂